Electronics

The aim of this car is to be light and fast around a racetrack, and with that in mind anything that wasn't needed was binned from the car, including the stock loom. While I was stripping out the interior I realised exactly how much wiring was in the car that wasn't actually needed anymore. Extra wires = extra weight, and more things to go wrong so they had to come out.

I invested in a Painless wiring harness from the 'states (http://www.painlessperformance.com/)

This is a great bit of kit, that includes everything to wire up a street legal race car, using it's own fusebox and switch panel.

Switch Panel

Fuse box

Complete kit

I'll update this once the kit goes in the car.

The other electronic unit I'm excited about is my new STACK ST8130 dash.

STACK are an English company who produce aftermarket dash displays, gauges and data acquisition units. These are top quality pieces of kit, and are seen on the Koeniggsegg CCX as a factory fitment.

More can be read on ths unit here: http://www.stackltd.com/streetdash1.html

"Ideal for both Rally and High Performance Street cars, the ST8130 not only retains all the ST8100 racing features but also meets street legal requirements.
Replaces speedometer, tachometer, oil-pressure, water-temperature, fuel-level, voltmeter, oil-temperature odometer and tripmeter functions.
Each system is supplied complete with sensors (except fuel level), ready wired harness and manual. Ultra light-weight design utilising a carbon fibre composite housing. Compatible with all conventional & MSD ignition systems and engine types.Intelligent Alarm SystemThe user adjustable intelligent alarm system monitors engine condition 20 times every second. The instant any value exceeds a normal safe working level the alarm light is illuminated and a clear easy to read alarm message is displayed on the LCD.Precision fuel level calibrationThe ST8130 can be simply connected to any standard fuel sensor. Unlike conventional gauges the ST8130 allows the user to precisely calibrate the sensor, using a multi-point scaling, to the tank - ensuring the driver knows exactly how much fuel is in the tank at all times.

The Street Dash Display Max system is supplied complete with mounting brackets, switch kit, mil. spec professional wiring loom, manual and all sensors (except Fuel level) to provide the following functionality:

Tachometer

Speedometer

Odometer & Tripmeter

Oil & Fuel Pressure readout

Water & Oil Temperature readout

Volt Meter

Fuel Level

Infrared Lap Timing

Predictive Lap Timing

Peak Value Tell-Tales on all monitored parameters

Intelligent Alarms on all monitored parameters

Separate low fuel level light

Optional plug in Shift Light

Fully sealed against water and dust

1 year competition Warranty

Suitable for all negative earth ignition systems "

I've always wanted one of these, so can't wait to get it hooked up and running.

I also got my hands on the Infra red lap timing system, which is a great addition and one of the main reasons I wanted the unit.

The STACK will run alongside an Electronic Greddy Fuel Pressure and Greddy Boost gauge for all the information I need in cabin.

To mount the unit, Freddy at Topstage (http://topstage.com.au/) built me a custom carbon fibre mount for the stock cluster position which turned out great.

Gearbox

With aspirations of an eventual 300+ rwkw's once fully developed, and having gone through a number of gearboxes already, I decided to go for a gearbox strong enough to handle the rigours of track work. Luckily for me a guy I know was selling the gearbox out of his old car, the Endless Racing drag R32 GTS-t. This car was stolen, and the only part recovered was the gearbox, and I'm glad they got it back!

The gearbox is an RB25 unit, with OS Giken 1-3 gears and a strengthened input shaft. The box was rebuilt about 50km's before the car was stolen after destroying the input shaft at Calder a few years back on slicks. If this box was strong enough for a 450rwkw, twin TD06 equipped RB26, then it sure as shit should be strong enough for my car.

To get it all fitting up I was lucky enough to get my hands on a rare ERP Bellhousing kit. I'll be getting a custom 1 piece tailshaft made also, and running the existing OS Giken twin plate w/ lightened flywheel which was freshly rebuilt. Hopefully it is not the weak link in the chain...

Rebuild time!

With the destruction of my manifold I thought it was time to fastrack the always intended rebuild of the engine... which just happened to turn into a rebuild of the whole car! Here I am two years later and the thing is still not ready...

The engine was not in need of a rebuild, but constant leaks and small issues prompted me to get the whole car sorted out, and rebuilt purely for track work. I comp tested the old engine before it was sold and it read 159, 158, 162, 160 or something very similar to that. Not bad after having 240rwkw's for a number of years, and doing motorsport! Shows that if you look after them properly then the SR is a tough engine.

My original plan was just to rebuild the engine with a simple kit, comprising arias pistons, eagle rods, head gasket, studs etc. Something cheap and strong. That didn't last long though.

I thought if I'm doing it, I may as well go all out and forked out for a 2.2 big bore kit from the US. The idea behind the 2.2 for me was the added torque, and area under the curve for motorkhanas, and low speed corners on the track. With my old setup I found myself stuck between gears on occassion, especially at Winton where on some corners I would be banging the limiter in second, but not have sufficient torque in third.

I decided to go for the big bore kit as it would be happier revving, while still providing me the low down torque I required. This is the kit I ended up going for:

It comprised of a Cometics headgasket, Darton 90mm dry sleeves and CP pistons.

Along with this kit, I also purchased the following:

Crower Billet H beam Conrods:

Naprec Heavy duty timing chain:

Greddy Cam gears:

Powerbond racing SFi Balancer:

Modified GTi-R Oil pump:

ARC Sump:

JUN 272 11.5mm lift camshafts:

JUN valve springs:

Nissan Gasket kit:

1mm inlet and .5mm oversized Pep-Pro valves:

Tomei RAS:

ARP Head studs:

The crank and rocker arms were cryo treated and deemed fine to go back in.

As you can see, the simple freshen up had gotten a little out of hand, as always seems to happen... oops

The parts, along with another block, went off to Williamstown Engine Reconditioners (03 9397 2694) to be built. During this time I went overseas, so about 6 months later the engine came back ready to roll.

Now to get the rest of the car up to scratch...